BIG Planting Event this Saturday April 28

So, a convoy of four trucks and trailers gathered at Bakers Nursery early Sunday morning. I had all my homework done presuming we could put 8 trees on each trailer and everyone had their list of tree species going to individual address’. Presume nothing should have been my motto for the day. You guessed it! Some trailers could take 8, others 4 and we had to load the two big ones kinda over their weight maximum. Mother God was listening to me sweat it all the way back to town where we arrived safely.

33 Trees got delivered after a lot of head scratching and going in circles. I think I can safely say, I now know where almost every street in Goderich is. But we’re golden. Some of these trees got planted on Sunday which was Earth Day, what a blessing BUT there are still a lot to go in. If you’ve got the time this Saturday, please consider registering at the Goderich YMCA to help us plant these trees on Private Properties. It’s a byo shovel event and you might want to wear your wellies if this weather keeps up. We would sure appreciate your help:)

Donated trees from Pro-Lawn Landscaping

Trees arriving in Goderich from a company near Peterborough named Pro-Lawn Landscaping. Dirk Woudstra, we simply can’t thank you enough! Also Nicolas Knoop of Knoop Industries for having a ten hour day going to get them for us. For the price of gas. Another huge thanks. To Tony Knoop for being long suffering and Jannette Kuiper whom unloaded and is storing these trees for the big plant coming up on Saturday. 14 Sugar Maple going to 14 separate properties. Being planted by a group of volunteers led by Luke Elliott.

GODERICH TREES PROJECT DAMAGED TREES – REPAIR and REGENERATION

GODERICH TREES PROJECT DAMAGED TREES
- REPAIR and REGENERATION
Damaged Trees, Repair and Regenerate
(PDF format, original 3 page layout view recommended)

Why are Trees Important to Goderich?

            Aside from beauty, shade, air quality, shelter from wind and privacy, trees are very important to Goderich.  Goderich is a peninsula surrounded on 3 sides by steep lake-banks and steep riverbanks.  The Town itself is built on the above tableland.

            Water (rain, snowmelt etc.) naturally filters into the ground and drains from the highest point, the Courthouse, to the banks where it emerges as springs along the banks.  Through their root systems, trees absorb this ground water and prevent the springs from becoming flowing streamlets erupting along the banks.

            Trees prevent erosion of both the banks and top of bank public parks by reducing the flow of groundwater to the banks.  The roots not only draw water but also stabilize the soil and hold the banks together, preventing the ‘shrinkage‘ of both tableland and top of bank parks due to erosion.                 Diagram 1): Trees in the Landscape.   The left side shows how trees                 absorb and evaporate water. The right side shows major parts of a tree.

            Due to the loss of trees from the F3 Tornado and the cutting down of both damaged and undamaged trees, we will experience increased erosion and shrinkage of the tableland.  Planting new trees and repairing and regenerating older damaged trees can reduce this erosion.

Repair and Regeneration:

            The payback from repairing and regenerating damaged trees is DOUBLE that of new plantings.  This is because older trees have larger, more developed, root systems that draw huge quantities of groundwater and will continue to draw water as the tree regenerates.

Rule #1: If a tree has withstood an F3 Tornado and is more or less vertical, it deserves the chance to live.  Wait until late Spring to see if nature regenerates the tree through new growth.  Do not cut it down.

Is this tree Dead?

            If a tree looked healthy before the F3 Tornado, chances are it is still healthy despite total leaf loss and broken branches (whether removed or still there).

Diagram 2): Damaged Tree? Same tree as
1) above, except it has no canopy.  limb damage.

Diagram 3): Damaged Tree?
1) Same tree as above, with major & minor limb damage.
The tree in Diagram 2) is the same as in Diagram 1) except that it has no canopy of leaves and smaller branches.  Whether pulled off by the F3 Tornado or the result of pre-winter dormancy (all deciduous trees lose their leaves in late autumn) this tree is absolutely healthy.  This tree will bounce back in the Spring as if nothing happened.

The tree in Diagram 3) has been damaged by the F3 Tornado but is still healthy.  Repairs would be proper cutting (dashed line) of the 1 major limb and 1 minor limb that are broken.  These cuts should be at the ‘branch collar’ as shown in Diagram 4) and are equal to pruning a healthy tree.  If major limbs on only one side were damaged, the ‘balancing cuts’ shown in Diagram 5) may be needed to help prevent future leaning and possible breakage.  Both trees will bounce back in the Spring without difficulty.

Diagram 4): Branch Collar Cut to preserve the tree’s energy.
Diagram 4): Branch Collar Cut to preserve the tree’s energy.
Diagram 5): Balancing Cuts so tree grows vertical, reduces future leaning & breakage.
Diagram 5): Balancing Cuts so tree grows vertical, reduces future leaning & breakage.

If the cuts have not yet been made, unless there is a safety issue, simply leave the tree alone until early Spring.  But these cuts should be done so that the tree’s growth goes into regenerating itself with new growth.  Otherwise the tree will waste energy attempting to self-repair, or contain the damage, to the broken limbs.  All trees attempt to seal damaged areas rather than heal them.  Proper cutting aids the tree in sealing.

Rule #2: Don’t cut down a healthy tree to find out what is wrong with it.  Even with no canopy and major & minor limb damage a healthy tree will bounce back.  Proper cutting helps the tree regenerate itself.

Trees in Stress?

If a tree has sustained major damage to more than two-thirds (66%) of its major limbs, the tree is in stress and may have suffered ‘catastrophic injuries’.  That tree is in shock and needs to be repaired, or helped, to regenerate itself.  Proper cuts and repairs are done so the tree will use its energy toward new growth and will regenerate itself.

Proper cuts involve clean cuts to broken limbs, so the limbs and trunk do not bleed out and so tree pests (bugs, bacteria etc.) do not enter.  ‘Catastrophic injuries’ such as vertical tears to the tree’s trunk, where major limbs have torn off, and major areas of exposed trunk should be cut back to solid wood.

Rule #3: Major injuries need to be repaired immediately in the Spring to help the tree regenerate itself.  Remember that the tree’s roots are its source of energy and are not damaged.

Above all be patient.  Some trees that are in stress may actually skip one growing season to conserve energy.  “July or August of this summer may be too soon to make an accurate assessment of the tree’s overall health and ability to regenerate itself.”  Be patient and wait for the second growing season.

Our preliminary assessment is that there are probably 500 – 1,000 damaged trees still standing on the Goderich tableland in various states of disrepair, including many mature trees.  “The vast majority of damaged trees are capable of regeneration if properly repaired.”  About 80% of these are on private property with the remaining 20% on public boulevards (not including the lake-bank slopes with extensive tree damage).

Arborists:

If you have questions regarding the health of trees and proper repair techniques you can consult an “arborist”, preferably an ISA Certified Arborist.

Arborists are tree specialists who, among other things, know how to cut and repair damaged trees so that the overall health of the tree is maximized.  They have an apprenticeship and are tested and certified by the ISA (International Society of Arboriculture).  Certified arborists are retested every 2 years.  Their focus is the health of trees and of the environment surrounding them, and they are prepared to make sensitive and sensible judgements about trees.  They are tree surgeons. *

 There are two Certified Arborists in the Goderich area: Ontario Tree Specialists and Huron Tree Service.

LET’S REGENERATE GODERICH TOGETHER

Repair and Regenerate Damaged Trees

 * Prepared by Gord Garland (Honours BA, MA) and Chris Sallows (Journeyman Arborist) with review and input from Michael Ormston-Holloway (BSc, MScP, GDHort, MLA) who is an ISA Certified Arborist.  Michael spoke about these issues in the Friday and Saturday evening summary sessions to the ‘Goderich Master Plan Design Workshop’ January 12-14, 2012.

Missing…

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Spring Campaign wrap up.

Started today at 5:30, for no particular reason  accept that my old body needs to do it’s thing roust about then. Once you’re awake enough to wander to the bathroom. You’re awake. Started thinking about today and all the things that needed doing and decided one of those holiday things…….what ever I forgot, I’ll buy.

Met at the YMCA this morning to a group of volunteers about sixty strong. Part of me amazed and the other not. I know what a fantastic community we live in, but there is just something in womans heart that sings when that many people show up to help their neighbours.

Spring Planting dates and trees available.

Hello All:

It’s been awhile since I updated but that doesn’t mean things haven’t been happening. Busy month ahead of us. We’ve got fifteen  donated sugar maple coming to Goderich this Tuesday. These 3″ Caliper trees are coming from Pro-Lawn Landscaping in Orono. Our transportation company, Knoop Industries is going to pick them up for the price of his gas.

All of these trees have homes and will be being planted on Saturday April 14th by a large group of volunteers. We have purchased “event ” insurance for this and the other planting date of April 28. We have 33 trees on order for that date. All homeowners have to have their locates done to receive these trees. Following due diligence and all that good stuff we are really looking forward to these Events.

Trees Ontario along with some local Colleges and our own YMCA will be hosting the larger event on the 28th with informational sessions, brochures and lectures. Media will also be covering this event.

If you have not applied for a tree or know a family member, neighbour or friend who’s property could benefit after being hit by the F3. Please contact goderichtrees@gmail.com  We are also gathering our list of volunteers:)

Open Meeting

This Tuesday January 24 at the East St. Train Station  7:40 for all interested parties. Will have updates on fundraising and hope to brain storm for more. Also hope to address issues of getting donated trees from across Southwestern Ontario to Goderich. See you there:)

New Tree Planting

Purchasing a tree is a lifelong investment. How well this investment grows depends on the type of tree selected and the planting location, the care provided during planting, and the follow-up care after planting.

When to Plant

  Ideally, trees are planted during the dormant season- in the fall after leaf drop or in early spring before budbreak. Weather conditions are cool and allow plants to establish roots in the new location before spring rains and summer heat stimulate new top growth. Healthy balled and burlapped or container trees, however, can be planted throughout the growing season if given appropriate care. In tropical and subtropical climates where trees grow year round, any time is a good time to plant a tree, provided that sufficient water is available.

Planting Stress

Balled and burlapped trees lose a significant portion of their root system when dug at the nursery. As a result, trees commonly exhibit what is known as “transplant shock.” Transplant shock is a state of slowed growth and reduced vitality following transplanting. Container trees may also experience transplant shock, particularly if they have circling or kinked roots that must be cut. Proper site preparation, careful handling to prevent further root damage, and good follow up care reduces transplant shock and promotes faster recovery.

Carefully follow the nine simple steps below to help your tree establish quickly in its new location: Note: Before you begin planting your tree, be sure you have located all underground utilities prior to digging.

1. Identify the trunk flare.

The trunk flare is where the trunk expands at the base of the tree. This point should be partially visible after the tree has been planted. Remove excess soil from the top of the root ball prior to planting if the root flare is not visible.

2. Dig a shallow, broad planting hole.

Holes should be 2 to 3 times wider than the root ball, but only as deep as the root ball. Digging a broad planting pit breaks up the surrounding soil and provides newly emerging tree roots room to expand.

3. Remove the containers or cut away the wire basket.

Inspect container tree root balls for circling roots. Straighten, cut, or remove them. Expose the trunk flare, if necessary.

4. Place the tree at the proper height.

Take care to dig the hole to the proper depth and NO more. The majority of a tree’s roots develop in the top 12 inches (30 cm) of soil. If the tree is planted too deep, new roots will have difficulty developing because of a lack of oxygen. In poorly drained or heavily clayed soils, trees can be planted with the base of the trunk flare 2 to 3 inches (5 to 7.5 cm) above grade. When placing the tree in the hole, lift it by the root ball, not the trunk.

5. Straighten the tree in the hole.

Before backfilling, have someone view the tree from several directions to confirm it is straight. Once planted, it is difficult to reposition the tree.

6. Fill the hole gently, but firmly.

Pack soil around the base of the root ball to stabilize it. If the root ball is wrapped, carefully cut and remove any fabric, plastic, string, and or wire from around the trunk and root ball to prevent girdling and to facilitate root growth. Fill the remainder of the hole, firmly packing the soil to eliminate air pockets that may dry out roots. Further reduce air pockets by watering periodically while backfilling. Avoid fertilization at the time of planting.

7. Stake the tree, if necessary.

Studies have shown that trees establish more quickly and develop stronger trunk and root systems if they are not staked at the time of planting. Staking may be required however, when planting bare root stock or planting on windy sites. Stakes may also offer protection against lawn mower damage and vandalism. One or two stakes used in conjunction with a wide, flexible tie material on the lower half of the tree will hold the tree upright and minimize injury to the trunk, yet still allow movement. Remove support staking and ties after the first year of growth.

8. Mulch the base of the tree.

Mulch is organic matter spread around the base of a tree to hold moisture, moderate soil temperature extremes, and reduce grass and weed competition. Common mulches include leaf litter, pine straw, shredded bark, peat moss, or composted wood chips. A 2 to 4 inch (5 to 10 cm) layer is ideal. More than 4 inches (10 cm) may cause a problem with oxygen and moisture levels. Piling mulch right up against the trunk of a tree may cause decay of the living bark. A mulch free area, 1 to 2 inches wide at the base of the tree, reduces moist bark conditions and prevents decay.

9. Provide follow up care.

Keep the soil moist, but not water logged. Water trees at least once a week, barring rain, and more frequently during hot, windy weather. When the soil is dry below the surface of the mulch, it is time to water. Continue until mid fall, tapering off as lower temperatures require less frequent watering.

Other follow up care may include minor pruning of branches damaged during the planting process. Prune sparingly after planting and delay necessary corrective pruning until a full season of growth in the new location has occurred. Completing these nine simple steps will maximize the likelihood that your new tree will grow and thrive in its new home. When questions arise regarding your tree, be sure to consult your local ISA Certified Arborist or a tree care or garden center professional for assistance.

This information copied from a brochure from the (ISA) www.treesaregood.com